MANILA, Philippines – Throughout her illustrious culinary career, Margarita “Gaita” Fores employed thousands as her restaurant empire grew. Yet, she somehow remembered nearly every person who worked under her.

More than just a boss, the Filipino chef fondly called Ma’am Ga by her staff was a leader who led with love. Her past and present staff — many of whom had worked with her for over 20 years — were heartbroken upon hearing of her untimely passing.

“We were just texting the night before,” Margarita’s longtime Cibo head staff Joy Guama shared in an interview with Rappler.

“She was strict, but she had a reason for everything. And you followed her not because you had to, but because you respected her.”

Surprise gestures

Jeffrey Sagnip, who worked under Margarita for 10 years at Cafe Bola in the mid-2000s, remembers her keen attention to detail.

Margarita had a habit of pulling out a penlight to inspect the fixtures, he shared, with the acclaimed chef pointing out even the smallest issues she could spot in the branch, like a dead lightbulb.

“‘Dear…’ she’d say, and just point it out,” Jeffrey recalled. And he would get to work fixing it immediately. But beyond her perfectionism, what he remembers most were her surprise gestures of generosity.

“We would just sit down for lunch break, and suddenly, we’d find out our meals had already been paid for. We’d be so shocked,” he told Rappler in a mix of Filipino and English. He resigned due to health reasons, but otherwise, he said, he would still be working under her.

It was August 2024 when Jeffrey saw his former boss again in Gateway — he dropped by Grace Park, and to his surprise, was approached by Margarita herself. “Hi! How are you?” she asked him.

“I was so overwhelmed that she still remembered me.”

Margarita’s impact as a mentor stuck to Jeffrey — he is now running his own homemade pasta kiosk in Caloocan, inspired by Margarita’s dishes. Jeffrey credits her for his business mindset and passion for food.

“Every time I prepare food, I remember her. Like when she would say, ‘Garlic should not turn green!’ She was a perfectionist about food — hindi dapat careless (you can’t be careless). That’s something she instilled in all of us.”

Always lent a helping hand

Alexander Villas first met Margarita in 2004 when he was a server at Cibo in Shangri-La. His first interaction with her was surprising — after serving her order, she immediately sent him to get fitted for a uniform.

“I like you,” Margarita told him. She was building Pepato in Greenbelt, and she wanted him there.

From then on, Alexander became part of her world, working at Pepato for seven years and Cafe Bola for two as front-of-house.

“She had such a strong presence. When she was there, you knew it. She would greet everyone, ‘Hello! Hi! How are you?’” Alexander told Rappler.

What stood out to him was her honesty and transparency. “She didn’t hide how she felt. If she was mad, she’d let you know. If she liked you, she’d praise you openly. One time, she told me, ‘Alex, one of my friends said your service was over and beyond,’” he shared.

Alexander brought everything she taught him when he started a career in Australia, working as a personal chef for a family.

“She taught us how to read a table, how to serve properly, how to understand ingredients,” he said. “She wanted perfection in every detail.”

When Alexander returned to the Philippines, the first person he saw at Lusso was Margarita. She invited him to work for her again.

“She had the best food. Not just good — the best! And she was so warm. That’s what I loved about her. You could just talk to her — anyone could — without hesitation,” he shared.

Most of all, Alexander will never forget Ma’am Ga’s generosity — she helped him when he was hospitalized. “She was always willing to share her knowledge,” he said. “And she was compassionate. Sobrang bait (Very kind).”

Lessons beyond food

For Heidi Apilado, who worked in Margarita’s catering business for 13 years, the lessons went beyond food. “She taught me to be patient, to be friendly, and to always give the best to the clients,” she recalled.

Margarita’s expectations were high, but so was her belief in her people. Heidi remembers moments of tough love — when things went wrong in the kitchen, Margarita wouldn’t hesitate to call it out.

“She would raise her voice when she needed to, but it was never just anger — it was teaching,” Heidi said. “She wanted us to understand why things had to be done a certain way. It was never about making us feel bad — it was about making us better.”

No matter how intense things got, Margarita always made sure to check in with her staff afterward. “The next day, she’d come back and say, ‘Oh Heidi, okay na ba kayo? (Are you all okay?)'” Heidi shared.

Margarita always made sure her staff felt valued, she said. Whenever they had big events, she would always send pizza to the commissary for everyone.

“She was so joyful, so loving, so kind. Hindi ko siya makakalimutan (I will never forget her). Without Ma’am Ga, I wouldn’t be in this position,” Heidi said.

One of the most important lessons Heidi learned from her was to always put the client first. “She always reminded us: ‘Ask yourself, is this what’s best for the client? Is this how you would want to be treated?’ That was her standard, and we all followed it.”

She always had a clear vision, Heidi shared. “That’s why when she gave instructions, we listened. Because we knew that whatever she was asking of us had meaning,” she said. “That’s what made her leadership different. When she spoke, you didn’t just hear her — you felt her presence and believed in what she was saying. She was one of a kind.”

Ma’am Ga’s right hand

For Joy Gauma, her routine first thing in the morning was to check her phone for Ma’am Ga’s text.

“That’s what kept me going all these years,” Joy, who has spent 25 years working alongside Margarita in Cibo, told Rappler.

Joy started as a food dispatcher at Cibo and rose the ranks, now in charge of quality control for all Cibo branches. Having lost her parents at a young age, Joy saw Margarita not just a mentor but also a mother figure. She was someone Joy could always turn to, whether it was for guidance, comfort, or even just her familiar and distinct voice.

She fondly recalls how Margarita would affectionately call her “Miss Beauty” and how she was always on call, whether it was for good news or bad. If it was bad news, she would call out: “Joooooy!”

As Margarita’s partner for Cibo, the pressure was immense, but it was a role Joy embraced with pride. “She used to say, ‘Joy, you’re my eyes.’ She told me that if she wasn’t there, I had to do my job. She trusted me completely,” she added.

One of her fondest memories was their last trip to Italy where Margarita sent Joy, the Store Manager and Area Manager of the Year, for training. “It was an all-girls trip. She was so happy. She told me that it was one of the best trips she had.”

Committed to nurturing talent and growth, she would even send her Margarita Floralscapes florists abroad to refine their craft.

And if there is one lesson that Joy will carry with her, it’s to stay humble. “Ma’am always told us to never forget where we came from. Because that’s what keeps you grounded — it reminds you how you started. That’s what I tell people I train,” Joy said.

“I was given an opportunity. As long as you love your work and learn everything Ma’am taught us, step by step, the opportunities will come. That’s the culture at Cibo — most of our managers started as waiters. Our promotions are always internal,” Joy shared.

“She wanted everyone to keep learning, to be better. That’s why she left such an impact. Without Ma’am Margarita, I wouldn’t be where I am today.”

At their last company Christmas party in January, Joy was unexpectedly called to the stage to receive a 25 Years of Service Loyalty Award. Margarita, also surprised, burst into tears and ran up the stage to embrace her.

“You’re not leaving me, right?” she asked Joy, a moment she will always remember. “And, now she left me,” Joy tearfully shared.

A daughter named Margarita

Joy Bilan, the current restaurant manager of Lusso, vividly remembers the day she met Margarita Fores: her graduation day at Far Eastern University (FEU).

Even as a working student, Joy was the Hotel and Restaurant Management (HRM) valedictorian and gave a speech during the graduation rites. Margarita was the commencement speaker that year.

“After my speech, she approached me and asked about my plans. I told her I wanted to work in the food industry, and she told me to reach out,” Joy said.

At the time, Joy was surprised after receiving Margarita’s calling card, but life moved fast, and she never had the chance to follow up on that unexpected conversation. She even lost the card.

Joy ended up working at Motorino instead. Months turned into years, but somehow, their paths kept crossing.

“I would see her at events, and every time, she would say, ‘Bakit hindi ka pa nag-aapply sa amin?’ (Why haven’t you applied with us yet?),” Joy recalled with a laugh. She gave her calling card again. However, Joy hesitated again, still unsure if she was ready.

It took four years before Joy reached out. At that time, her dream was to work on a cruise ship, but she first decided to work under Margarita’s catering arm.

“I texted her, and she immediately replied, remembering who I was. That’s something I’ll never forget,” Joy said.

“She first assigned me as a sales representative for catering so I could learn the business. She also rotated me through Grace Park, Lusso, and other brands. But I liked Lusso the most because I felt it aligned with my cruise ship goal — the structure, the operations, everything,” Joy said.

Eventually, Joy got her first cruise ship assignment.

“Before I left, Ma’am told me, ‘Don’t resign.’ She said I could always come back whenever I was in the Philippines. But I insisted on resigning properly to be fair to my colleagues,” Joy said. Margarita understood.

“I still kept in touch with Ma’am Margarita while I was abroad, updating her on things like, “Ma’am, look at this menu in Cozumel, Mexico!”

On Joy’s second cruise contract, she found out she was pregnant.

Unsure of her next steps, she turned to the one person who had always been there for her. “I messaged Ma’am Margarita, and without hesitation, she welcomed me back. She told me I would always have a place here whenever I needed it. That meant everything to me.”

She encouraged her staff to go after what they wanted, Joy shared. But she would also never turn them away. “When people approach her, she always gives chances,” Joy said.

“True enough, whenever I came back, she was always there.”

As a tribute to the woman who played such a pivotal role in her life, Joy named her daughter after Margarita. She also promised that her second son would be named after the chef’s son, Amado.

“She’s more than just a boss to me. She’s one of the best people,” said Joy, who, like the rest of Margarita’s devoted staff, will always remember the woman who shaped them.

The woman surrounded by peppermills from around the world (Margarita’s treasured collection) who cared for stray cats and always enjoyed a glass of her “absolute favorite” white wine.

Joy recalled one of their final conversations about a customer complaint in Lusso, where Margarita gently reminded her, “Always make sure to recover every guest. Please, protect my name.”

And that’s exactly what everyone intends to do — honor the legacy of a woman who left an indelible mark on everyone fortunate enough to know her. – Rappler.com